Site #69
Finlayson Point is a relatively small park located on Lake Temagami, about an hour north of North bay, and about 40 minutes south of New Liskeard. It is rustic, and perhaps the more charming because of that. The terrain ventures beyond rugged to what appears desolate, like there are species there working hard to survive. This summer has seen a lot of rain, and Finlayson has not escaped the impact of that. Some sites were rather muddy (campers used plywood to get in and out), and site 69, tho it backed onto wilderness, also backed onto standing water.
The park office is not a convenience store in any way. Though there are the usual t-shirts and souvenirs typical of Ontario parks, there were certainly no marshmallows, instant coffee or or waxed paper cups of fire starter, so come fully prepared. Firewood is available for purchase (mostly birch, 8-10 pieces), as is ice. Beyond that, like the rest of the things trying to make it this far north, you are pretty much on your own. There is a grocery store in town and town in close (Groceries are More) but I never got to find out what the "More" entailed, as it was closed the holiday Monday I decided I needed its wares. But hooray there was gas and an LCBO in town (1 km away!)
The park layout is a little confusing - don't expect to find your site by looking at the numbers, you should pocket and carry your map, or else take a good walkabout when you arrive. There are two small, shallow sandy beaches that don't seem to attract much interest. But that's because all the fun is happening on the lake.
Lake Temagami allows motorized boats as well as planes to land - be ready to be woken early by the fisherfolk who are out to catch the one pretty early. During the day the lake is busy with pleasure-crafters and canoeists, and there are many private properties that dot the shoreline - way more than the small border of the park itself. Fishing is pretty big here - I caught a pickerel with a worm on a $10 kid's rod, so if I can do it you can too. Canoe rentals are $15 for 5 hours, or $25 for 8 hours. An 8-hour rental lets you get out before noon, and double-back at dusk.
The usual chipmunks and squirrels are out and about - they are not too aggressive, but definitely tame and nut-curious. Loons are plentiful on the lake, and call day and night. Actually, the bird game as a whole seemed pretty on point - heard an owl at dusk, and got a flyover from a local eagle while fishing. No bear warnings etc. in effect at least for this visit.
Facilities - because you know it matters. Outhouse style for the most part, separate mens and womens. Sink with running water was a nice perk. Smelly, but relatively clean. Can I tell you, there is one comfort station for the whole park, so if you need comforting, choose your times wisely. It is closest to the electrical sites, and the playground, small marina and beaches. Showers were hit and miss for warmth, #1 was fabulously wonderful, and #5 was freezing (tried two days with same results). I heard anecdotally the handicapped shower #3 was decently warm, from a guy who used the handicapped washroom while a handicapped woman waited for it.
Hikers - DO NOT be fooled, there is no hiking located in the park. There is however a nice system of private, non-park trails located across the highway a short jaunt from the park. You can also access from a car, and park at the nearby fire tower (small fee to access the FT). Old growth pine is kind of a big deal in Temagami, and you can see lots of it. One tree takes two humans all four arms to wrap around the girth of the largest. The summer being so wet, many trails were understandably muddy to super-wet, and accessing the main (yellow, caribou) loop required a shoes-off creek crossing on not-too-slippery but jagged rocks. On the plus side, foraging (if you are into that) was plentiful - chanterelles and lobster mushrooms in particular were abundant. This is not a great park for runners, if that's what you are into. Hills are steep and there is not much ground to cover, plus as noted, no trails in park to run.
Overall, I liked Finlayson Point. It has 6000 years of First Nations history you can't help but think about as you walk the shorelines and trails, and due to its location, seems to attract people who just want to be out on the water all day - so quiet time came early, no yahoos. Privacy was decent, though many sites were shallow and-or wide open to the sun (who cares, you are out on your boat all day right?) Prime sites for pop up or tents, if you can get them, are out on the point - #94, as well as #11 look out onto the water and are fairly private. Bugs were not bad at the time of year noted - a bit of mosquitos at dusk, no blackflies or deerflies - a few horseflies, but barely.
A personal pet peeve - you were never truly out of the earshot of Hwy 11. Given that I drove 8 hours to get to a remote wilderness, it would be nice if I didn't have to listen to jake brakes punctuate my vacation. But in a way, it's part of the character of Ontario's north - rough, rugged, and a place where people work hard and play hard.
